| 10-12 February 2005 - Eric I had a great time in Medan and met some great folks including a very calming Buddhist man named Jimmy and his sister A Cin who helped me considerably. I headed back to tsunami land after a hectic day rushing through the Medan airport but missing my plane. When an ATM ate my card for the second time and I realized I would not have enough cash to purchase a motorcycle and also make the trip to Aceh, I scurried to the hotel on back of Jimmy's motorcycle, grabbed my things and hauled ass to the airport but too late. I ran into a man named Hendro whom I knew from Aceh and ran into on his way to Jakarta. He gave me the key to his motorcycle in Aceh and said I could use it. Luck was with me. I finally got back to Aceh on a later flight by upgrading to business class and sat next to the ambassador from Yemen. I met with U.N. logistics personnel that night to research a plan to deliver water purifiers to villages still isolated along the western Sumatran coast. Over 80 kilometers of coastal highway from Banda Aceh to Meulaboh and 110 bridges were completely destroyed by the tsunami. I am considering a solo backpack into areas isolated from both road and heli. An hour after I returned from Medan, we had a 6.0 earthquake epicentered fifty miles away that sent the locals into a frenzy. They had experienced several earthquakes in the days I was gone to Medan, and thousands of people were fleeing in fear of another tsunami. Police were racing through the streets telling the people over P.A.'s not to panic, that there was no danger. Ours was the only car heading into the city as thousands of people were heading in the other direction. Because Eddie and I had lost our accommodations, I stayed in a house with other displaced people in major mudville which was being used for storage by a charity. It was in the heart of the city's flood-affected area and there was a water mark four feet up the wall above me. The neighborhood was eerily quiet and mostly vacant but for a few defiant young men who cussed the tsunami and dared it to return. I looked over the house and neighborhood and made my own escape plan just in case. I didn't sleep too well that night mostly due to mosquitoes, the little bastards, but I was also a bit concerned about the chance of continued quakes, etc. Since I had no access to updated seismic information, I phoned a few friends back home and asked them to check with U.S. seismic agencies and to call me back if they thought another earthquake was eminent. 12 Feb 005 Yesterday, we revisited the village of Labuy and it has undergone notable changes. It is getting cleaner, (though still a mess), there have been large deliveries of building materials, the children seem more cheerful and of course that makes everyone happier. Walking around I got the feeling that they will somehow continue on in spite of the disastrous card dealt them only a month and a half ago. With Aaron's translation ability, I have learned of many touching stories of survival and heartbreaking tragedy. We spoke to a man who cheerfully told us how his four children survived the tsunami by climbing a palm tree. His motorcycle, key to his livelihood, also miraculously survived though it had quite a knock from all the salt water it swallowed. Aaron and Eddie have headed to Krueng Raya. I have remained to request U.N. heli transport to Calang on the western Sumatra coast. Other options of transportation include chartering a boat for about 3,000,000 rupiah, ($300) or small airplane. Later today I plan to head down the western coast as far as this Suzuki Smash 110 will take me. Check out the website as there are many newly posted photos and info. Please take care and as always accept my warmest regards. I miss you all. Love, Eric |
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